Estimate your monthly mortgage payment and see the full amortization schedule — how much goes to interest vs principal each month and the total interest paid over the life of the loan.
Compare renting against buying on net worth over time — the honest way. The owner builds home equity (with appreciation, net of selling costs and the loan), while the renter invests the cash they don't tie up in a down payment plus any monthly savings. The chart shows each path's net worth and the crossover year when owning pulls ahead. Estimates exclude income-tax effects.
Model the financial impact of moving — net proceeds from selling your current home, the new monthly payment, and how the switch affects your long-term finances.
Calculate how much home you can afford based on your income and existing debts, using the lender guidelines (28% housing ratio, 36% total DTI) that determine your actual approval odds.
Find out how many months it takes for monthly payment savings to recover the closing costs of a refinance, and whether pulling the trigger makes financial sense.
See how much private mortgage insurance adds to your monthly cost, track when you'll hit 20% equity and can request PMI removal, and calculate total PMI paid.
Compare buying a pricier home inside a strong public-school district against buying a cheaper home outside it and paying for private school. The cash you save on the cheaper home is invested, and we show which path leaves you wealthier after the school years. This is a money comparison only — it doesn't judge school quality or your kids' experience.
See how your money grows over time with compound interest. Solve for future value, the starting amount you need, the rate required, or how long it takes to hit your goal.
Track how an asset — car, collectible, real estate — has grown or depreciated since you bought it, and compare it against what you'd have earned by investing that money in the market instead.
Map your monthly income and spending to see exactly where your money goes. Track your savings rate and debt-to-income ratio to find opportunities to cut back.
Calculate how much you need to save each month to reach a target by a specific date, or find out how long it takes to get there at your current savings rate.
Find out how large your emergency fund should be based on your expenses, and how long it will take to fully fund it at your current savings pace.
See how inflation erodes purchasing power over time — and what you'll need in the future to maintain your current standard of living.
The math most day traders don't want to see. Compare active trading (short-term capital gains tax every year) against simply holding an index fund (long-term tax paid once at the end). See how much the tax drag costs you over time.
See whether your money actually goes where your values are. Weight how much each value matters to you, tag your monthly spending, and compare your stated priorities with where your dollars really go. There's no "right" answer here — it's a mirror, not a scorecard.
Not sure what to do with your next dollar? Answer a few quick questions and we'll point you to the highest-impact next move — and the calculator to run it. This is a general framework (the classic "financial order of operations"), not personalized advice: your situation and your values may reorder it.
A business can be profitable on paper yet short on cash — clients pay on Net 30/60/90 while payroll, rent, and supplies are due now. This shows the cash hole that payment delay digs, how much you need in the bank to survive it, and when you climb back out.
Your salary isn't your real hourly rate. Fold in the commute, unpaid lunch, after-hours work, and time off to see what a job actually pays per hour — then flip on Job B to compare two offers and find the raise it would take to make a longer commute worth it. Gross (pre-tax) pay.
Calculate the nest egg you need to retire comfortably. Factors in your expected retirement length, inflation, Social Security income, and the gap your savings need to cover.
Find your Coast FIRE number — the amount you need saved today so that compound growth alone funds your retirement, with no additional contributions needed.
Compare the after-tax outcome of a Roth IRA vs a Traditional IRA based on your current tax rate and your expected rate in retirement, to see which account type wins.
Enter your portfolio size and monthly withdrawal to see how long your retirement savings will last, accounting for investment growth and inflation-adjusted spending over time.
Compare claiming Social Security at 62, your full retirement age, or 70 — including breakeven ages and lifetime totals — to find the strategy that pays you the most. It's built for planning the decision before you claim, so enter a current age under 62.
See what retiring early does to your savings: the smaller nest egg from fewer contribution years, how many more years you'd need to fund, and the extra monthly savings to hit an inflation-adjusted target by your early date. (The dollar figure is lost nest-egg growth; it does not by itself price the extra withdrawal years.)
Find out if you're leaving free employer match money on the table, how close you are to the IRS annual limit, and what maximizing your contributions could mean for your retirement balance.
Your other retirement tools assume one steady return every year — but real markets swing, and the order of good and bad years matters. This runs 1,000 randomized market scenarios to show the probability your money lasts and the full range of outcomes. These are modeled probabilities based on your assumptions, not guarantees.
Compare two auto loans side-by-side — different prices, rates, or terms — to see the true cost difference and find which deal is actually better over the full loan period.
Calculate your real monthly cost of owning a vehicle, combining your payment, insurance, fuel, maintenance, and depreciation into one complete picture.
See how your vehicle loses value over time using real-world depreciation curves for different vehicle types — from trucks and SUVs to luxury and economy cars.
| Vehicle | Year 1 | Year 3 | Year 5 | Year 10 |
|---|
Find out what vehicle price fits your budget based on your take-home pay, using the 20/4/10 guideline — up to 20% down, about a 4-year loan, and payments near 10% of take-home. These are budgeting guidelines (not a lender's debt-to-income approval test), and the 20% down is a target you're measured against, not a requirement.
Compare the full cost of leasing vs. buying the same vehicle over the same ownership period, so you can decide which option makes more financial sense for your situation.
Calculate the break-even point and long-term savings from switching to an EV, factoring in price premium, fuel cost differences, maintenance savings, and tax credits. Costs are compared over the ownership years and annual mileage you enter, using the fuel and electricity prices you provide; the federal EV credit is off unless you enter it.
Decode a lease offer using the numbers dealers rarely explain. Enter the money factor, residual value, and cap cost to see exactly what you're paying — and why.
Enter your monthly spending by category to calculate whether a premium card's rewards and perks outweigh its annual fee compared to a no-fee alternative.
Card A Rewards = ∑ (Monthly Spendᵢ × 12 × Pts/$ᵢ × Point Value¢ ÷ 100) Card B Rewards = Total Annual Spend × Flat Rate Net Ongoing = Annual Rewards + Annual Perks − Annual Fee Net First Year = Net Ongoing + Sign-On Bonus Effective Rate = Annual Rewards ÷ Total Annual Spending × 100 Break-Even Monthly Spend = (Card B net fees − Card A net fees) ÷ [12 × (Card A Rate − Card B Rate)]
Card B Rewards — a single flat rate on all spending, no optimization required.
Net Ongoing Value — what each card returns after its annual fee, every year.
Net First-Year Value — adds the sign-on bonus, which typically only applies once.
Break-Even Monthly Spend — the total monthly spending at which Card A starts outperforming Card B, assuming the same category mix. Below this level, Card B wins. (This crossover is only defined when Card A has the higher reward rate; if Card B's rate is higher, compare the net first-year and ongoing values directly.)
Find the monthly spending level at which a card's incremental rewards exactly cover its annual fee, and calculate your net advantage at your actual spending.
Net Fee Cost = Annual Fee − Annual Perks Value Rate Advantage = Fee Card Rate − No-Fee Card Rate Break-Even Spend = Net Fee Cost ÷ Rate Advantage × 100 (annual) Net Annual Advantage = Total Annual Spend × Rate Advantage − Net Fee Cost Months to Recover = Net Fee Cost ÷ (Monthly Spend × Rate Advantage ÷ 100)
Rate Advantage — how much more (in percentage points) your fee card earns per dollar vs. the no-fee baseline. If your blended rate is 2.2% and the baseline is 2%, the advantage is just 0.2%.
Break-Even Spend — the annual spending at which your extra rewards exactly cancel out the net fee cost (the result card also shows the monthly equivalent). Below this, the no-fee card wins.
Months to Recover — how many months of spending at your current level it takes to fully recover the annual fee through incremental rewards alone (excluding perks, which are already counted in Net Fee Cost).
Calculate how long it takes to pay off any loan, see the total interest cost, and find out how much extra monthly payments save you in time and interest.
Track your student loan payoff timeline and total interest paid. Toggle the comparison to see whether aggressively paying down the loan or investing the extra amount builds more wealth.
Compare two proven payoff strategies across all your debts at once. Avalanche targets the highest interest rate first (mathematically cheapest); Snowball clears the smallest balance first (most motivating). Enter your debts and an extra monthly amount to see which gets you debt-free sooner and how much interest the avalanche saves.